*[Enwl-eng] Foods We Love

enwl enwl at enw.net.ru
Sat Feb 3 19:25:45 MSK 2024


Many of our favorite foods are linked to family and culture. What if they 
disappear?





                                News of the world environment


                                 NEWSLETTER | FEBRUARY 02, 2024

























                                Vanishing Foodways

                                IN THE VERY EARLY HOURS of the morning, when 
the community is still asleep, Juana is already in action. It is three in 
the morning and her gastronomic corner, the Kiosco Luís Elián, is getting 
ready to open its doors. Soft music fills the air as she concentrates on her 
culinary work. At 5:00 AM, customers begin to arrive in search of a warm and 
comforting breakfast.


                                By lunchtime, a line has formed with people 
waiting for Juana’s cooking. The menu of the day offers a variety of 
options, from stewed chicken to fried ripe plantains. But it is the rice 
soup that attracts everyone’s attention. It is the star dish, a simple but 
satisfying combination that promises to keep stomachs full for hours. In 
this corner of Panama, as in the entire country, rice is an essential 
component of daily life.


                                Thousands of miles away, in Santa Cruz de la 
Sierra in Bolivia, a similar scene occurs every morning. There, Dorys Peña 
runs a small food stall known locally for the preparation of majadito batido 
or graneado passed down from generation to generation.


                                Like her Panamanian colleague, Dorys learned 
the amounts of ingredients and cooking times when she was a child. Her 
secret is to diversify the use of rice. Whether as a majadito graneado 
(toasted rice) or majadito batido, which is not grained and is seasoned with 
a spoonful of urucu, which adds a saffron-like color, her preparations 
include onion, paprika, pepper, cumin and shredded charque (dehydrated 
beef), and are complemented with eggs, plantains and served with boiled 
yuca.


                                Juana, on the other hand, prepares the soup 
with a smaller amount of seasoning, but the result is just as effective. She 
mixes the rice with meat and vegetables to submerge it in a fragrant broth 
which gives it an unmistakable homemade flavor. She modestly says, “Today it 
didn’t turn out so well.” But one of her diners is quick to contradict her. 
“Please give me a little more rice.”


                                Certainly, rice represents a bond with 
tradition and culture that is shared in almost all of Latin America and the 
Caribbean. According to data provided by the Regional Fund for Agricultural 
Technology (FONTAGRO), it is the fourth most consumed food in the region and 
contributes on average 11 percent to the per capita caloric intake in Latin 
American countries. Panama and Bolivia are worthy representatives of this 
abundance which, despite the indispensable role of rice in many recipes, 
could face various risks in the not-too-distant future.


                                Food brings us together. Our mouths water 
for a dish that is part of our gastronomic tradition and our history. They 
are dishes that have been on our palate for generations. But what if that 
was no longer so?


                                This article is part of a three-part series 
produced by InquireFirst that looks into traditional foodways in Latin 
America that are now at risk.




                                READ MORE

                                Photo by 2010CIAT/NeilPalmer





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      From: Editors, Earth Island Journal
      Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2024 4:45 AM
      Subject: Foods We Love




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